Over the overly long arc of my career I've used studio electronic flashes more than any other kind of lighting instruments. And my entire use of studio flash was done with the cameras and flashes set to manual modes. All manual, all the time. Early on I proceeded with a variety of flash meters to light the way to correct exposures but since the time of digital I more and more depended on the LCD image and the in-camera histogram. I still use my flash meter on nearly every studio flash engagement but now it's a balancing act when it comes to the fine-tuning. I get to know how the differences between what I'm seeing on a camera screen and what the meter tells me will look like once I get the images into a computer and look at stuff on a monitor.
With a manually set camera and a manually set electronic flash, supervised by an accurate flash meter, you have a situation in which every camera does equally well. Equally well for exposures, at least. Sure, one camera might be better able to focus with your weak modeling lights while another might have more fine control over color settings but when it comes right down to getting a correct exposure all the cameras, from the cheapest to the finest, to the most Veblen, do pretty much the same job.
I've used my Leica cameras (various models) with studio flash for nearly four years now. From the SL to the SL2 they do a great job. Because...why not? Everything is set for complete manual control.
In the past, in addition to highly controlled advertising shoots I also found myself (somewhat happily) photographing a lot of corporate events. Most of the needed photographs at most conventions, seminars, trade shows and conferences were done while being as invisible and as fly-on-the-wall as possible. I used fast lenses to shoot mostly with available light. Especially when documenting speakers behind a podium on a well lit stage. No additional lighting required by me. Just get the color balance and the exposure correct, work on your handholding techniques and you are golden. Believe me, people will praise you for not intruding on their event with flashes blazing, creating a huge, show stopping distraction and making a high dollar event seem just a little --- tawdry and amateurish.
BUT. But in nearly every event I've covered over the decades there is always a social component in which the existing lighting is universally sucky, people are impatient with being posed and don't ever want to wait for that third chance to get everything "just right." What the client usually wants are well lit images of two people together, three people together or small groups of people together who are, or seem to be, enjoying the event and the chance to meet and mingle. Or to just hit the open bar with gusto.
You, the photographer, while scrupulously avoiding the open bar, will be tasked with getting as many happy couples and small groups photographed as you can in a limited amount of time and you will almost always have to provide the main lighting, on the fly, or at least augment the lighting you find at the venue. Since you will be weaving in and around a crowded space you'll need to find a flash that fits on your camera, that provides accurate exposures and which is, hopefully automatic enough to give you a 90% or better "hit rate."
The flash is perhaps even more important than your lens choice. As far as lenses go you can use a standard 24-70mm zoom, provided you try to stay away from the widest focal lengths so the people on the edges of the frame aren't ballooned up to giant sizes. You could also use a 35mm or 50mm lens but you'll need to compose and crop with your feet. Meaning you'll have to back up or wade in to get the proper compositions. Once you've got your lens figured out and you've got the room figured out all that's left is getting the right flash. And getting its operation figured out.
I prefer flashes that can sit on top of the camera. I know, it's heresy. But it's the classic, front lit celebrity photo. The red carpet motif. The "Make sure you get the shot. Any shot" scenario. I loved finding a great flash (SB-28, SB-800) when I did events with a Nikon DSLR. Some of the better Nikon flashes, when used with their pro cameras were foolproof. Rock solid. Amazing. One in the hot shoe equipped with a bounce card on top and a pocket full of double AY batteries and you were prepped and ready for an evening of grip and grin photo work.
I'm booked for an event job in the second half of April. Most of the three days will be spent in conference situations in big ball rooms. No problem for a full frame camera and fast, longer lenses. But there will be a long evening of socializing, dinner, live music and dancing. There will also be a cocktail party reception on the first evening. And the client wants great images of couples and groups both facing the camera in static poses and also a good selection of candid shots in the same low light situations.
This calls for flash. Fast to use flash. Easy to calculate flash and since this is the first time I've explored on camera flash with Leica SL and Q cameras I have to say that the universe of TTL and automatic flashes made for these cameras is tiny. Quantum physics tiny. Shot glass tiny. There are currently two Leica flashes on offer. A big one and a small one. And, surprisingly, or unsurprisingly, there seem to be no dedicated, automatic third party flashes at all. Nothing from Godox. Nothing from the other big names. Just the two Leica flashes. The SF40 at about $550 and the SF60 at about $675. Neither model gets rave reviews from users. Most users who squawk have issues with reliability. As in "oh shit! My flash is D.O.A." Those whose flashes are still with us complain about automatic/TTL exposures being all over the map. About long recycle times. About overheating. And, since it is Leica, there is the usual complaining about pricing.
Sure, Leica cameras are made to last with solid metal bodies, etc. but it seems obvious that flashes are just a nuisance for them. A distraction. Something they relegated to a third party with a wish and a prayer. Perhaps they understand that the majority of users don't want to sully their vision and image integrity with something as pedestrian as on-camera flash. But it just so happens that I do need that.
At least a couple times a year.
I am currently considering two workarounds. One is to just pull one of my non-dedicated but highly reliable, fully manual Godox flashes out of their hiding place and spend a few weeks practicing total reliance on guide numbers. Not a deep exercise but more of a reminder and warm-up. After all, with digital cameras it's pretty straightforward to figure out a good subject to camera distance and make a small guide on white gaffer's tape to put on the back of the flash. And the flash never gets tricked by white or black outfits. No exposure metering to trick. It's a low cost, low key fix and I have enough non-dedicated (meaning just a single pin for flash triggering on the bottom of the flash and no other control contacts to confuse my camera) flashes that I can destroy a handful of them with misuse and still finish the job. It will just require me to pay attention better. And it means I get no auto focus assist light should the ambient light get really, really dicey. No life jacket.
The second option and maybe a better one is to pull a couple Panasonic S5s off the copy stand and out of the desk drawer and put one of several dedicated flashes I have for that system on top. Then I can fire away with full automation and even take advantage of the AF-assist light if needed. I already have the gear for that so it makes the most sense. And I really like the Godox V1 I have which uses big lithium batteries and for which I have many fun attachments. My nod to Leica would be to use the Leica 24-90mm zoom on the Panasonic camera. Why not?
Still, why can't Leica make some better flashes for those few who have extra space in the trunk of their Buggatis for more gear? Or, maybe I should presume that one of the Leica flashes would be fine and that most people are silent about their Leica flash experiences because everything is just fine and it's only the small handful who have issues who are vocal.
In the grand scheme of things it's a very small bump in my road toward event happiness. As you probably expect, I'll try everything well before the shoot date and probably settle on either the most eccentric solution or the most expensive. You know my new motto, right? The More Friction The Better.
23 comments:
I've had good luck with the now-discontinued Metz based Leica flashes. They are the SF-58 and SF-64 and are pro grade units. In addition to TTL they also offer auto-thyristor mode which often works better than TTL.
Could a Leica flash be rigged to stun a bad guy? Maybe Henry White could tell us.
Nigel from Hamburg.
Oh yeah. I'll ask him just to make sure. Reminds me of the story he once told of dropping one into the bathtub of a rival spy... enlightening.
Thanks Nigel.
I know that you probably tried this. But, would a Godox flash for a lumix s5 maybe work on the sl? If you’re wrong, you have a great flash for the lumix. They co-design the cameras, maybe they work the same way.
Hi James, I have a number of flashes dedicated to the Panasonic S series cameras (S5, S1, S1R...) and I just checked after reading your comment to make sure, but... nope. The flashes and the cameras have totally different pin locations for the communication between flash unit and camera. I so wish it worked with Panasonic and Olympus dedicated flashes but...No.
Rats
Look for a Metz 54 MZ 3 or 4, get dumb shoes for it and use a dumb radio remote and shoot it in Auto thyristor mode. Far more dependable than any TTL flash I've ever used.
I have the SF40 flash and it can be used atop my Q2 and CL. It’s okay but nothing fabulous. I’ll be interested in any workaround you can find, Kirk, because Leica’s proprietary hot-shoe pin locations make me positively mental. The only other camera maker that can upset me like this is Sony. Note that I do not own any Sony gear anymore.
It’s not bad enough that we pay the going rate for Leica bodies and lenses. We have to use the mediocre Leica-branded flashes - of which only two are available at premium prices. In the meantime, I’ll try to stick with available light.
What about Good flashes. I thought they have a version for Leica with a remote. But I am sure you have thought about it and I just missed something.
The other way to go is with a small LED panel that I keep on my wrist. I set it to match the ambient light and turn it on and off when I need it, and it looks like a flash, but the nice thing is that you can actually see what is happening, and you can preview the exposure. You wind up shooting close to the ambient light levels, as you only want to fill in and light up the subjects close to the camera, but it looks more natural than flash and there's no mystery as to what you're getting. So long as you're shooting with an EVF camera.
OTOH, you can use your Lumix cameras for flash, but still, the TTL flash with these is for the birds. Only Nikon seems to have the flash thing down properly.
Ah, heck. I still use Vivitar 283s with bounce card, usually off camera with either the old school sensor extension cable so I can keep the sensor on camera or a cheap wireless trigger. The cheap triggers used to be criminally unreliable but they're now as reliable as a Quantum trigger which sells for 10 times the price. Of course, I'm retired from 40+ years of newspaper photography. My Nikon SB800 usually stays home.
It doesn’t solve your on-camera requirement but I have had good luck with the Godox XProII-L Trigger if you don’t mind having the flash on a flash bracket. I find it incredibly frustrating that godox makes a trigger that works but doesn’t make a dedicate flash for Leica. It is the big go with the system today.
I was thinking of the same thing. Is there anything wrong with a Godox trigger?
I have two solutions. First, I too have used the Metz based SF-58 flash for over ten years in all modes - that means TTL, TTL high speed, A, M, M high speed and M slave. I have used this flash on my M7, M9, M240, M10 and SL2. Never have had a single problem. I also have a Quantum battery and cable hooked up to it for fast recycling times where large parties needed extra quick recycle times and a couple of thousand flashes per event.
The second solution I have used was using any old Nikon flash in manual mode, as the Leica pins are placed in line with Nikon pins. With both set-ups, I have used the Nikon SC-17 off camera cord and it works flawlessly also.
There are poor flash options from Leica because Leica photographers only shoot street photos and so never need a flash. Ha. Ha. Therefore, the market for a flash is minuscule and a money looser.
Kirk, I am a flash fanatic for all portraits, even outdoor ones, as when I was getting my photography degree at university, a couple of my professors insisted on a catchlight in every portrait. No catch light led to 25% reduction in marks, the same as a light pole sticking out of the subjects head. I still remember the long lectures about the eyes being the window to the person's soul and without the catch light the eyes were just deep dead black holes.
I'll second Jeffry's suggestion of a Nikon flash. In addition to manual mode those that offer auto-thyristor mode will provide automatic flash exposure. With the M240 I find that mode works better than the camera's TTL when the image has a light source or bright background. In that situation the TTL exposure can be underexposed, sometimes to the point of the camera refusing to fire the flash. As Jeffery pointed out either the Metz-based SF-58/64 and the Nikon units are compatible with the Nikon sync cords. Then I use them off camera using a wrist strap for when I need to focus a la Sean Reid.
Kirk-
off-topic, but I know you like Paul Reid's work. Here's a new interview wirth him on Youtube, in case you'd not seen.
Rick
Would have been nice to include the URL :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GE9Nxaw05to
Thanks Rick! Much appreciated.
Ahhh the good old days of potato masher flashes. Started off with a Honeywell then went to Metz. I agree with you, Nikon has it figured out! The SB flashes are great. Just put a dyno sticker that says Leica over the Pannie name. No one will know the difference.
Loved the bathtub comment!! Want "friction", wear tight shoes.
Eric
Based on the options you have available, it would appear the one that would involve the least compromise and inconvenience would be to use your Leica L-mount lenses on your Panasonic L-mount cameras with a Panasonic-compatible shoe mounted flash unit. Given your skill as a photographer, I doubt your clients would have any reason for dissatisfaction. Or are they so status conscious they would tease you for not showing up with your Leica gear and make you cry? (Tongue firmly in cheek, by the way...)
Hi Gordon, Funny to think about. The client (the actual event planner) for this event is someone I've done event photography for all over the country for about 30 years. I've shot with every camera you can imagine. We worked together a couple years ago in Sante Fe and I'm thinking I shot that show with Panasonic cameras. Possibly the S5. But prior shows were done with Nikons, Sonys, Olympus 4:3, Olympus m4:3, Kodak SLRns, and, as you can imagine, a wide range of film cameras from, yes, Leica Ms and Rs to Nikon F3s, as well as even a few early events with Hasselblad 6x6 film cameras. I don't really have any doubts about my ability to do the job with just about anything more consistent than a Zippo lighter and disposable camera but I sure love to think out loud while I'm planning.
Everyone at this particular conference will be "well established" and a red dot won't move the needle for any of them one way or another. And maybe that's the beauty of it all.
I experimented with Leicas for a couple years, during the transition to digital (went from M7 to M8) but my mainline cameras were always Nikons. I idly wondered why Leica simply didn't make their cameras compatible with the excellent Nikon system. I don't think they'd even have to pay Nikon anything, as long as they made at least one flash that would work with the same triggering system. "Oh, by gosh, you're right! You *can* use Nikon flashes. It never occurred to us that you could do that."
Leica's Metz-based flashes are quality products that worked as well as the often primitive Leica camera TTL flash exposure would permit. Once Metz left the scene the Nissin-built replacements were both less durable and capable. Now Leica has partnered with Profoto. Its Connect Pro supports Leica TTL for studio flashes, and it is rumored that a Leica dedicated Profoto A10 on-camera flash will become available.
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