A fellow photographer we met out on Wabash Ave.
Chicago is a great city; at least the parts of it that I saw... The people I met in the streets were mostly congenial and, well, normal. It's kind of amazing because I read a couple of guidebooks and watched a couple of popular, mainstream YouTube videos before we headed there and each one tossed in a warning of sorts about crime. Lot's and lots of crime. It was suggested that I avoid publicly visible camera wearing and that I keep whatever bag tightly cinched across my chest or risk being robbed in broad daylight; right there on the streets. But I have to tell you that inside the "Loop" I felt as safe or safer than here in Austin and I consider Austin as pretty darn safe. I've long since given up worrying about carrying a camera in the streets -- even a pricey one.
It's an easy journey from Austin to Chicago and I have to sheepishly admit that I have been to the "City of Broad Shoulders" a half dozen times or so, but mostly on business during which we flew in, shot a job at a specific location, and then flew out again. No tourism and no sightseeing. It was so different for me this time...
B. and I left on Friday morning last week. I opted for premium economy seats on United Airlines and paid a small, additional fee for priority boarding as we were packing only carry on luggage and I didn't want to be in one of the boarding groups that requires battling for overhead compartment space. The flights are easy; it's about two hours and twenty minutes between the two cities plus whatever lucky time you get to spend on the tarmac waiting for a gate to clear. The price of the tickets was acceptably low and I was reminded that domestic airline pricing was, on average, higher back in the 1990s. At least the way I remember it.
I packed two cameras and used one of them about 90% of the time. My choice? By far the little Leica D-Lux8. The other camera was the Q2 which, on paper, should produce superior files but in reality is limited by comparison to its smaller, lighter and cheaper sibling. I brought along four extra batteries for the D-Lux8 but really could have pared it down to one battery in the camera and one in the pocket. The camera sips battery juice and I found a fully charged battery lasted all day long. But in context, that's a full day of tourism, not full-on photography mode. As it was I shot about 1600 images over the four days I was out of town and by the fourth day my concern about running out of battery juice dissipated entirely. A big plus over the Q2 is that D-Lux8 batteries can be charged in camera which means I don't need to pack an external charger.
I wore my camera with me everywhere. On every street. At every venue. Usually right over my left shoulder but sometimes just dangling in the middle of my chest, tourist style. No issues. No second glances from...anybody but a few young photographers sporting their own cameras with their straps wrapped around their wrists. A quick smile and nod of recognition in both directions and everyone moves on.
We stayed at a nice hotel at the corner of Wabash and Wacker (which sounds funny when you say it out loud...) and it was nicely positioned for quick, pedestrian access to nearly everything we were interested in seeing. Our overriding goal was to spend a day at the huge, labyrinth-like Art Institute of Chicago.
I've written this before but I'm writing it again because it was so amazing: Seeing original art, as opposed to seeing photos in books or online or on post cards is a whole different experience. When one stands in front of a favorite Renoir, Monet or Hopper painting and sees the rich detail, the elegant brush strokes and the magnificent handling of color --- at scale --- it's a whole different experience. Like the difference between watching a great movie in an IMAX theater instead of watching the same on a cellphone screen while bouncing down potholed street on a shaky bus...
Hopper's "Nighthawks" is now burned into my retinas and my brain. So wonderful when the original painting is right in front of you... So different from a postcard...
Fifteen minutes after checking into our hotel we were out heading South on Wabash looking for a sandwich shop for a light lunch. That's when we ran into Teri B. photographer. She's a well established Chicago and San Francisco wedding photographer. Here's her website: https://www.teribphotography.com/
She was sporting a shiny and vintage Leica M6 and photographing a friend in the street. In one hand she was carrying a plastic bag filled with fresh film. We chatted for a few minutes and I asked her if she was exclusively a film shooter. "Nope." she replied, "I have an M11 and an M11-M (monochrome) up in my hotel room but I mostly use them for work..." No fears about a "public display of camera" here either. Nice. Love her website. The visuals are great and the copy is letter perfect.
Teri B's M. with 35mm Summicron.
the plastic bag holds the film inventory. I think she had just stocked up at Central Camera which is across the street. She has a nice and interesting YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/@teribphotography/videos
And I especially like her story about doing a whole wedding in France with one Leica M240:
Sorry YouTube makes you watch commercials. But it's worth it to see good stuff.
After meeting Teri and photographing her friend, B. and I headed down the street to a bakery/sandwich shop/café called: The Goddess and the Baker. The sandwiches were huge. We split one. The guidebooks all caution tourists not to make eye contact with locals. Ha! We were in the middle of lunch when the folks behind us asked about my camera and we ended up yakking with a charming, young couple who both had cameras and were obviously interested in photography. Paranoia makes for many lost opportunities....
Dinner the first night was at a restaurant called, Perilla Steakhouse. It's a Korean steakhouse where meat entrées are prepared at one's table. Here's the website: https://www.perillachicago.com/ Our server was fun, very knowledgeable and has an advanced degree in political science. She made our meal one of the most memorable we've had in years. And her wine selections were so perfect. Prices? Reasonable.
We walked around on Michigan Ave. for a while and then, beat from traveling and mild sightseeing, headed to our very, very quiet room to get some sleep. We were anticipating a six hour Art Marathon at the Art Institute the next day and wanted to be on our game. Favorites in the galleries all mapped out in advance. I'll have more as I dive into processing the images. Hope you come back and read it all.
This place is filled with new and used treasures. Modern and some even predating me.
Gracious and happy counter help and so much to see. Almost bought an ancient Leica SL film camera complete with its original 50mm Summicron lens but in the end "settled" for a Central Camera bucket hat. Couldn't pass it up. A very nice bricks and mortar camera shop. Old school.
This is Johann Buis. He is a musicologist connected to the Chicago Symphony. We met him in front of the camera store. Turns out he is a good friend of our mutual friend, Anton Nel, the world renowned concert pianist. You might remember him from my coverage of "33 Variations" Here is the blog post with lots of photographs of Anton: https://visualsciencelab.blogspot.com/2012/12/look-to-art-and-youll-look-at-fun-art.html
More info about Anton: https://music.utexas.edu/about/people/anton-nel
Johann Buis was wonderful to meet and converse with. He's been a leader in the classical music world for decades. And a long time Chicagoan. So nice to meet interesting people in the streets....
The amazing fountains in Millennium Park. Ever-changing images of Chicago residents; 2000 of them, shown on fifty foot tall video. Kids spend happy time running through the water. So relaxing to just sit and watch. Every once in awhile the people in the photos on the towers would purse their lips and water would shoot out. Kids laughed, parents smiled.
People photography at "The Bean."
While we were out seeing the sites B. had an observation. Seems every so often a couple would walk up to me and ask me to take a photograph of them with their phone. Six, maybe seven times a day. She wondered if there was some sort of photographer vibe that attracted them. I kept having to move people closer to the camera. I got good reviews on the work. But it wasn't so much fun that I'm rethinking retirement. Still, it's fun to photograph people just on the spot. One couple looked at their images (I always shoot half a dozen) and suggested that I could have a career as a professional photographer... Sigh.
This is Henry. He's making a photo of his wife in front of the "Bean."
I loved the color of the camera and asked if I could photograph him photographing.
He was quite happy to do so. I then used his Instax camera to make a couple of portraits of he and his wife in front of the "Bean." Fun to meet people!
Breakfast sandwiches? Really, no clue. But hey! Tuck.
A rare photo of B. Standing in front of the "Bean" I was attempting to explore the sunstars that the Leica DLUX-8 provides at f11 and f16. Works pretty well as far as I can see.....
And negligible flare...
From the Goddess and the Baker on Wacker Ave.
I think this means you should find a different blog to read. But that's not very nice!
Exterior signages on the Contemporary Museum.
A very small satchel bag is all I brought along. Worked fine for holding all the crap we usually drag around. And, of course it's a Domke product for which I get not affiliate cash or recognition.
Neon at the Chicago Cultural Center. 4th floor.
I have more to talk about re: Chicago but I'm afraid we've already hit our limit for today. Hope you are happy and well. It's nice to be home. Already planning the next adventure...
All images from the DLUX8.
4 comments:
During my working life I visited Chicago many times, and I always stopped at Central Camera, and I acquired many a photographic item, including paper and other useful items for my darkroom. I'll be in Chicago in late October and visit again, and by the way glad I found you are still on the web, you and the online photographer are my favorite stops, thanks.
I *seriously* envy you this trip. I'm hoping to go next winter. I completely agree that there's nothing like seeing paintings first hand. I was very "book familiar" with the Gericault painting "Raft of the Medusa" but when I first encountered it personally...it's 16x23 feet. Who knew? Could have been three by four, as far as I knew from books. In person, it's overwhelming. Chicago in February! (Maybe.)
Re Wabash and Wacker. During my days of competition in car rallying, I travelled the many roads of rural Ontario. South-east of St. Catharines near Niagara Falls, there is a road called Sodom. About 4 hours drive from there, south of Belleville, there is a 1 km long road call Gomorrah. Wouldn't it have been great if they had been closer together and intersected. Someone would have the fun of telling their friends and family that they lived at Sodom and Gomorrah. Be a terrific place for a nightclub.
Glad you two had fun! Great action shot of you taking B's photo btw. I would love to spend some time in Chicago. The closest I have ever gotten is having meetings in the airport as I was transiting through to another city. For yet more meetings. Glad that life is over with.
Eric
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