1.17.2023

A private photography workshop for a single client. A chance to see the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in Winter. Another check-in with the Panasonic 20-60mm zoom lens.

 


A client of many years got in touch with me last year to ask about getting a camera. She's an art director with decades of design and art direction experience but a relative newbie when it comes to taking her own photographs. We talked for a while and it became clear to both of us that she has a passion for landscape photography (actually lives far to the West of Austin on a picturesque ranch) but also wanted a camera that would fill in for routine and quick photo jobs around a corporate office as well as being able to handle some very informal video interviews. 

With all those things in mind my recommendation (six months ago, or longer) was one of my favorite, inexpensive cameras, the Panasonic S5. I also suggested that she buy it with the "kit" lens because I have found the 20-60mm Lumix zoom lens to be very, very good. Far better than what one normally associates with "kit" lens. She bought the camera, the lens and also the 24mm f1.8 Lumix lens because she thought she might want a faster lens in the same focal range that she already likes. She took my advice and also got a second battery to go with the camera. 

If one is coming to an interchangeable digital camera directly from an old film SLR in 2023 it is understandable that the complexity of the menus in a new digital camera and the sheer range of controls and customizations can be daunting; even overwhelming. My client watched some videos about the camera on YouTube, took a stab at reading the manual and also did a number of adventures around the ranch to get a feel for the camera but there were still a lot of things that perplexed. And some fundamental idea about digital that we pick up over time but are not always obvious. 

So right after the holidays she got in touch and asked if I would do a private, half day workshop to help her better understand her camera. Since she is smart, curious and delightful I was happy to carve out the time from my busy schedule of drinking coffee, swimming and strolling around with eccentric camera and lens combinations. 

Yesterday I pulled out my Lumix S5 and my 20-60mm zoom lens, tossed a couple extra batteries and a Rocket bulb blower into an old, worn Domke bag and met my client at the front gate of Austin's Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. A favorite haunt also of highly competent photographer and VSL reader, Frank. Here's the info about the Wildflower Center. 

With a cup of coffee in hand we settled into the on site coffee shop to go over basics, theories of use for landscapes, and basic digital camera use. We'd both been on a number of shoots together over the years. She was the lead creative person on several annual reports we did for the corporate client she works for, and as recently as last Summer she hired me to photograph the co-CEOs of the same company. I knew she had the creative vision she'd need to get good photographs and she trusted my knowledge about the technology and how to leverage it in the service of making good photographs. 

One thing that impressed me was her desire to learn how to work with the camera in fully manual settings.  She really wanted to understand and master the exposure triangle and like most people who are new to working with a manual camera her biggest question was: how do you establish a baseline for the settings? How do you know which to set first and what the optimum settings for good photographs really are?

My take on all things exposure is that unless you shoot only fast moving sports the single most impactful setting you can make is your choice of aperture. We did the usual march through the apertures on the lens to show directly the affects changing from wide open to stopped down have on depth of field. And distributed sharpness. Then we discussed shutter speed as it relates to being able effectively hand hold one's camera and also (but very importantly) the impact of shutter speed settings on subjects that move. 

Once we've figured out those two settings we can select an ISO that gives the correct exposure for a given scene. With a current, full frame camera like the S5 one can more or less confidently set the ISO in a range between 100 and 3200 and not suffer from much image degradation at all. 

Then we drilled down to understand what to do if you set the aperture you want but the scene in front of you lacks enough light to set the shutter speed you want and stay at a workable ISO. That brought us into the real of slower shutter speeds and the ability to keep the ISO low for lower noise and better color. I was impressed when she pulled a very competent tripod out of her vehicle. 

After a couple hours of menu diving, theory and demonstrations we did a long walk around the gardens. She was able to shoot a bunch of shots and work with me to fine tune her applications of what we went over. By the end she was able to master the manual settings she had been intimidated by earlier. 

It was really fun for me to work one to one with an aspiring photographer instead of having to do a workshop in a group situation. In groups there is always someone who has a hard time understanding basics bookended by an impatient prodigy who already knows it all. With a single person and a well known camera you can tailor your teaching to exactly what your "student" wants and needs to learn and you can do it even better if you own and use the same camera. 

She asked me why I default to the S5 from time to time when I have other more expensive options at hand. I had to admit that the S5 is every bit the image maker my other cameras are but it also combines long battery life, cheaper to buy batteries (great for travel), the ability to charge over USB, and it's lighter and smaller than my other full frame, interchangeable lens cameras. I also mentioned to her that the S5 was the only camera I took with me on my last travel adventure and that it worked out swell. 

Finally, if the S5 is lost or stolen it would be much easier to replace. 

The client was thrilled with the workshop and really did master manual exposure in one long session. I saw the proof in her subsequent photos. I headed for home feeling happy and somewhat proud for helping to launch someone on a fun photography adventure. I'm sure this won't be our only workshop together. We could spend a day talking about style, and ways to go through the process of shooting. 

But for now I think she'll advance quickly if she takes my advice and keeps the camera with her always and shoots on a daily basis. The feedback loop with a good digital camera is priceless for accelerated learning. 

And that's what I did on Monday.

tons of families with small children at the Center yesterday. It was gorgeous, warm 
day in January. That's for sure. 


















17 comments:

vbsoto said...

I rarely comment, but Wow, these pop and wooed me.

thanks,

Jim said...

Several years ago I took the exposure advice of Jay Maisel and haven't looked back. Jay sets his camera on Aperture Priority and auto ISO and lets the camera set the shutter speed & ISO. He only has to adjust the aperture for the DOF he wants to get the image he wants. I find that works for the vast majority of my photography. Of course, it helps to understand the other parameters so that you know when you need to take them in hand. Obviously, if your aim is to stop action you will need a faster shutter speed than this is likely to produce and you should know what is the highest ISO your camera can be used without producing unacceptable noise but it is a better starting point for beginners than Program mode because they only need to understand how aperture affects their images and can progress to the other as they practice.

Roy Benson said...

It's nice to see you sharing images of buildings with straight lines.

Roy Benson

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Roy, the funny thing is that all the buildings were skewed and built out of line. Some even have curved walls but I straightened them all out in post so who ever is in charge of buildings at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center doesn't get embarrassed.

(kidding. Just kidding...)

Rube39 said...

Shooting normally in Aperture priority makes sense when using a full-frame (or bigger?) camera. I mostly shoot with 1" or m4/3s (or smaller), where DOF is not nearly so important. Since I mostly shoot street, I find it preferable to shoot in S or in P (keeping an eye on the ss) in order to freeze motion.
Landscapes are something else of course. Grin

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Rube39, if you shoot in Aperture priority you can use Auto-ISO and set it to a minimum shutter speed (1/250th of second?) to make sure you have the aperture you want AND the shutter speed you want. If you are shooting mostly outdoors during the day you'll rarely have to worry about ISO going too high. Much more preferable for people who really want control over depth of field.

With a really good sensor I'd even make the case that you could set the Aperture and Shutter speed and have the Auto-ISO working all the time to get you the best exposure. With this method you have a lot better overall image control. Shoot and raw and it's just about fool proof.

I haven't used "S" or "P" in probably over a decade. Just don't want to give up the appearance of control.... might be deluding myself but if I am, don't tell me. I'd hate to have to change.

Sean Staples said...

I often do just that shooting on the street. Set the shutter speed to 500, the aperture to f8 and let the auto iso handle the rest. Add in a good manual lens for zone focusing and there’s nothing to do but click the shutter.

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Sean, That's right on the money. And also one of the reasons I like to buy manual focus lenses with good distance scales. Hyperfocal distance focusing all the way.

Thanks!

JC said...

Sean and Kirk --

Autofocus doesn't work for you? (Serious question.)

EdAlruistPledger said...

Taking time to help an associate and friend is the right thing to do. The S5 a good recommendation also. Have become more at ease using mine. BTW, sometimes HiRes mode 2 works handheld, for landscape or static subjects. IBIS will be off, so use whatever is handy…lean against a tree or just use those old SLR skills. So far I have gotten that bit extra in image quality using up to 135mm lenses, and I am not steady anymore, at all. Use a higher ISO and shutter speed if need be.

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

JC, You may or may not believe this but AF is not great for stuff that requires an instantaneous reaction. With a MF lens prefocused to a hyperfocal distance there is no need to look through the finder if you don't have time. No need to line up a focusing square. No need to wait for a box to light up green. No need to tell the camera which face in a crowd you intend it to focus on. No need to swivel the camera to get a focusing sensor right to the edge of a frame. No need to get a thumb onto the AF lock button.

you see a shot you raise the camera and click. No hesitation. No episode of the camera choosing the wrong spot to focus on. You can just nail the shot in the instant and move on.

That's not to say I don't use AF most stuff but when you know you want to get the shot the first time and you're prepared the already set focus point beats the camera derived focus every time. Just takes practice.

Sean?

Sean Staples said...

Are use auto focus as well, probably more than manual. I was just making a further example of set it and forget it.

Robert Roaldi said...

Just one minor comment about speed of AF. I shoot Olympus and one of the things I shoot is bicycle races. After buying my E-M1 1st generation, I was having problems getting in-focus shots of riders approaching me. I was waiting for the green light before pressing down all the way on the shutter button and by then the rider might have moved too far. Then I read on some forum that there was no need to wait. That is, the combo body and lens that I used, E-M1 and Panasonic 35-100/2.8 could achieve focus faster than the EVF could refresh and display the green rectangle. The advice was just to mash the shutter button and trust the equipment to execute quickly enough. That works just fine about 98% of the time. It may not work as well with slower focussing lenses however.

I guess that's one disadvantage of electronic displays compared to OVF, but once you know what's going on it is not limiting in any way.

Sean Staples said...

Above should read “I use”

Anonymous said...

The 20-60 was as much of a lure for me as any L mount camera. The L mount might have made a bigger splash if they had started all of their standard zooms at 20mm.

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Not sure I agree with the idea that all lenses should start at 20. The 24-105 is one of my favorites as is the Leica 24-90. I think 20 is almost always too wide and too much of a lens design compromise. People might be better off learning to shoot tighter. Wide angle shooters strike me as people who can't decide what they want to look at...

Merle said...

You know, I've thought several times since I read this, that a possible next "career" for KT could be offering one-on-one personal sessions like you describe here. It sure seems like you enjoyed it a lot. How you filter through those that would like to learn with you so that they meet similar qualities you've described of your student here would be the most difficult part, I think. Price would only filter out those that can't afford it, so that can't be the only factor.

Just a thought. Seems like something you'd be very good at and enjoy if you could figure out how to do it well.

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