3.03.2023

And now for something totally different. My latest foray into "Camera Scanning" medium format film. I started with the worst case scenario; color negatives.

 

1991. Woman with keyboard. From an Agfa color negative. 

"My high school physics teacher looked at my photos again and again, declared me to be a genius, and finally suggested that I should consider becoming a photographer."  No. Wait, that's someone else's story. I didn't really pick up a camera until I was several years into an Electrical Engineering major at UT Austin. I had a beautiful girlfriend and it seemed like a waste not to photograph her. A lot. Which spiraled into...well...a career. 

From the late 1980s all the way through till about 2005 I shot a lot of film. A lot. Tons of it. I souped endless rolls of black and white film in my own darkroom and spent so much time picking up developed rolls of color film from the local labs that I think they were considering putting in a cot so I could just sleep there. And in that time span most of the commercial and fun work I was doing got shot with medium format cameras. Mostly Hasselblads but an assortment of Rollei cameras, the Mamiya 6, and even a few Bronicas. 

I loved the medium format because it could be worked with. It was flexible. And the quality was excellent. But when digital hit us in the face and all the work went into the digital camp I got rid of the darkroom, the big studio and even the ponderous scanners I was using to (slowly, slowly, slowly) scan my favorite frames. With a commercial career, some board obligations at a college, a mess of book projects and the raising of a bright young man I figured my scanning days were over and done with. But now, years later, I keep finding folders full of great negatives that I want to share before I decide whether to toss the whole mess into the trash and start a new career as an air conditioner repair person, or president of the World Bank. Or maybe a spy. 

I wanted a solution that would be fast to implement, fast to shoot with and which would give me a certain level of quality that would hold up well to just about anything I needed, web-wise. 

My Atlanta area friend, Ellis Vener, had written for a magazine about doing "camera scans" and I thought it sounded like a good idea. So I looked around the studio to see what I could cobble together. 

My basic apparatus is a Smith Victor boom arm with movable connection points on either side of the middle attachment to the tripod. I ending up putting a NanLite panel on one end, covered with an additional piece of white Plexiglas and I gaffer taped an old Epson film holder that I scavenged from one of the long departed Epson scanners. 

At the other end of the rig I set up a Sigma fp outfitted with a Sigma 70mm f2.8 Macro lens. Since this was just a trial run I only checked for every thing to be parallel by eye. And I used the most convenient camera at hand. Now that I know it all works I'll make everything parallel and locked down. 

On this, my first erstwhile attempt, I shot with the camera in the Jpeg mode and let the chips fall where they may. I pulled the resulting file into PhotoShop and inverted it. Then I set the area outside the active image to black with an eye dropped in curves. Then I color corrected using the new PhotoShop color grading tools. Time elapsed from concept to final image? About half an hour. Give or take a bit of time out for sipping single origin Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. 

I'm happy with the results. I'd love to see what a Sigma fpL would do for the files with the expansive 61 megapixels but I think I'll be just fine if I substitute the fp with a Leica SL2 and use the 47+ megapixels and the raw format wisely. The lens is cracking good. So no waffling there.... And the light source is smooth and even. I think I like this whole approach to scanning film. I'll keep working on it. Next up?

( just added a thought... Leica SL2 scans with multi-shot high res mode. I wonder what film looks like when the files are a whopping 185 megapixels?)

A BIG F-ING BOX OF BLACK AND WHITE 6X6 NEGATIVES!!! Ho boy. I think I see a tar pit just ahead. 

(Added the next day: Got frustrated trying to get everything adjusted for parallels, bought a nice copy stand from B&H instead. The light source works well as does the negative carrier. Just the camera aligning to flat target that miffed me. More reporting when the copy stand gets here....  KT)





I used gaffer tape because I'm out of duct tape. It would have sounded better, I think, if I'd said it was all held together with duct tape... Don't you? 

Fun projects to do while waiting for the refrigerator repair guy....

Now? Off to lunch. 

21 comments:

Anonymous said...

Kirk, if you want something more streamlined, check out negative supply.com

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Anonymous, I checked out their site in more detail. Looks very good. I may order the basic MF kit. Beats setting up and tearing down often.

Chuck Albertson said...

I may finally do this with some of my Kodachromes, like the one of the monitor lizard that walked up to our picnic table in search of a handout. But be glad that you only had to scan one negative per picture, unlike Werner Bischof's son:

https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2023/mar/03/in-living-colour-forgotten-photographs-werner-bischof

Anonymous said...

I use a Durst 4x5 negative carrier with glass, a lightboard on a table top and the camera in my Manfrotto stand. Been doing this for years with black and white negatives. Negatives hold about 7 stops from "black" to "white" so even jpegs will do.
Many years ago (around 2000 and the Canon D30) there was an analysis on Luminous Landscapes regarding "mega pixels" in a negative - a 35mm colour negative had a resolution of about 3 and black and white negative theoretically 40 for the highest resolving films.

Gato said...

Back in the day I had a Canon bellows with short mount macro lens and slide duplicator -- worked great and if I had kept it I could have adapted it to most any mirrorless system.

TMJ said...

Be a spy! But an analogue spy, go the whole Walter Zapp way, etc.. Perhaps don't tell anyone first, though.....

adam said...

probably overkill but I found a lab here with a drum scanner that does 23k dpi or something

Robert Roaldi said...

Gaffer sounds cooler.

I'd be interested to hear how you'd ensure parallelism.

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Robert, bubble levels. And it was frustrating. And so I ordered a copy stand from B&H. It'll be here mid-week. Frustration is expensive...

JoeB said...

Gato, right you are. I've been using a Nikon bellows, Nikkor 55mm macro a slide duplicator and various adapters to work on my Fuji camera. I think I will purchase a small Nanlight in place of a Vivitar flash fired manually, I even pointed my setup out an open window which worked fine but dependent on time of day for illumination/color temp.
It sure beats my dedicated slide/negative dub which took forever to scan a single slide/neg. Also beats using my Epson flatbed.

Tullio Emanuele said...

I would very interested in knowing your thoughts about scanning medium format B&W film.
I have been disappointed by the results of 6x6 B&W scans of negatives shot with hasselblad 500cm + 80 mm f2.8 versus 35mm shot with Contax g1 and various Zeiss lenses. The pixel count of the 35 mm files is higher than the 6x6 with scans performed with either Frontier SP 3000 or Noritzu HS 1800 scanners. Scanning was performed by 2 different professional labs which offer output files in JPEG only. Going to try a 3rd lab which will send the output in tiff format files, if I provide a thumb drive.

Found another lab that has a higher resolution drum scanner, but the cost is very high ($20 for a single frame)

EdB said...

Some years back Peter Krogh wrote a book on this and followed up with some YouTube video

https://thisweekinphoto.com/digitizing-photos-peter-krogh/

Interesting stuff that you've probably already figured out.

I use an MP4 stand over an old tranny editing panel (5000k). Parallelism can be achieved by using a mirror - Peter goes into detail. 4x5 glass negative holder for un mounted chromes (up to 4x5, 6x17cm are a PITA BTW). For the rest an assortment of film carriers from various enlargers and scanners. Tethering into LR and shooting raw+fine gives you options but more importantly lets you easily record your shot notes into metadata including links to model releases etc.

Amilcar said...

Kirk, I'll second EdB on parallelism. What I did was to fit a mirror into a screw-in filter frame, then carefully scrape out a 2 mm (all right, about a little more than 1/8 of an inch) circle off the mirroring, leaving only a glass peephole. This goes on the camera lens. A piece of mirror goes on the Kaiser glass negative carrier I use to hold the film - the camera is mounted on an old enlarger column. Using magnified live view I look at the reflections between the two mirrors and align them using the screws I've attached to the corners of the light table on which the negative carrier lies. It's fast and I consistently get grain on the four corners of the film image. I think your way of working horizontally instead of vertically is almost impossible to align unless you have the resources of an optical lab. By the way, I use common back surface mirrors, it's not necessary to use front surface mirrors.

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Oh, I just bought a couple of laser interferometers and bounce them off both parallel planes and measure the deviance angles. They can be aligned to a micron-acuity register of .05 microns. In fact, the change of humidity in the atmosphere has more effect than any residual mechanical misalignment. Of course I am using four dimensional mirrors made of Buscar ---- so there is that....

Amilcar said...

Did I came across as snarky? Did not meant it. I just copied a Rolleiflex accessory.

Amilcar said...

Found it! http://www.sl66.com/pg/accessories.shtml
click on Reproduction/Mirror Adjustment Set/Details

Kirk, Photographer/Writer said...

Naw. Not snarky. I was just playing around. Having a bit of fun typing. Thanks for the source!

fnk said...

Hi Kirk! Put a small glass mirror (without frame) in the place of the film, put a 50 or 35mm lens and look through the viewfinder/screen. Now parallel is easy to adjust! 😊

Peter Marquis-Kyle said...

Kirk, I suggest you try Negative Lab Pro -- https://www.negativelabpro.com/ -- which is a Lightroom plug-in. I am delighted with the way it handles film negatives, both colour and black-and-white.

Dan westergren said...

Yes, negative lab pro is an absolute must.