12.21.2023

I spent part of the holiday learning how to scan film with a camera and how to process the files from the scans. Fun.

Note. Not back from vacation. This post was originally published on the 3rd of Dec. but somehow got lost. I'm reposting it... See you in the new year.


When I sat down to distill my archive of photographs into a manageable collection it dawned on me that in addition to hundreds and hundreds of thousands of digital files I also have tens of thousands of various film frames. In fact, the first 25 years of my tenure as a photographer were, of course, all done on film. And a large amount of the work was done on black and white film. In the early days of PhotoShop and digital post processing I worked with a Nikon CoolScan 4000 to scan the 35mm images I wanted to play with and depended on a series of ever improved flatbed scanners to create files from medium format and 4x5 inch pieces of film. Neither of these methods was particularly efficient of fun so after a while I just gave up and took the occasional handful of negatives and/or slides over to Holland Photo and had them scan the film on one of their Noritsu machines. Again, since I couldn't put my hands on that process I wasn't particularly enthusiastic about the results. I had become far too conditioned to spend time doing my own tweaks and improvements during the course of the process. How could I not, having spent two decades hunkered down in my commercial darkroom?

With an ongoing wind down of commercial work since the pandemic I once again turned my attention to the idea of getting my favorite images scanned and out into the wild. Further motivated by the high resolution cameras that have come onto the market. I recently took a big plunge into researching how other people handled their "camera scans." (camera scans is my reference to placing a piece of film into a film holder, putting that on a very good light source and then photographing that frame with a high resolution camera body and a macro lens. After some DIY trial and error I broke down and ordered a Negative Film Supply negative holder and one of their high CRI/TLCI LED light sources. Those, along with a sturdy copy stand are the bedrock of my new scanning methodology. And I find it all works quite well. 

There is one caveat that must be voiced. You have to clean the dust off your negatives/slides before you scan them because every little spot and speck shows up. The worst is scanning black and  white negatives because there is nowhere for the dust spots to hide. Clean film is your friend. Clean film is your time saver. 

It's interested to note that everyone starts out their film scanning/camera scanning with the presumption that the highest megapixel camera is the best route to success. Of course, this all depends on your final target. But I have found that 24 megapixels digital cameras that have a good "multi-shot" high resolution mode are very good choices. Especially if that's what you have in house and don't feel like splashing out a lot more cash for what is really, mathematically, a relatively small amount of improvement. 

The lead photo of this post (above) was shot originally on Agfapan 25 medium format film. I think I did a good job processing it (Rodinal 1:50) and washing it because it's clean and stain free after 40 years of storage. I camera scanned this using a Panasonic S5, the Sigma 70mm f2.8 Art Series Macro lens and the above mentioned Negative Film Supply gear. I brought the raw file into Photoshop and inverted it (adjustments menu) and then worked on it by adding some contrast and some basic tweaks. It took about five minutes for me to get it just right. Much less time than my old flatbed scanner took to do a worse job....

I use the camera in the Aperture preferred mode. I set the aperture to between f8 and f11. ISO is set at 100. I use a blower brush on the front and back of the negative to get off as much dust as possible. I use a daylight WB. The LED is bright enough to give me a shutter speed of around 1/160th of a second. I've been using the camera set to multi-shot, high res and raw. So far it's been a good way to work. 

Of course I am manually focusing since we're down at near life-size. I have to say that some modern conveniences such as focus peaking are most welcome. It makes getting focus much easier. 

Since I already owned the cameras, the lens and the copy stand I've only had to come out of pocket for about $300 worth of additional gear. But, unlike cameras the film holder and light source don't become obsolete and are not "objects of desire" so it's all pretty much a one time expenditure which, I hope, will provide years of entertainment and material. 

A camera scan from a medium format color negative of Lou. Original photo 
done with a Hasselblad 500 CM + a 180mm CZ lens. The lens has the worst 
bokeh of any lens I have ever used and I blurred out the background a bit so
you would not have to see the harsh highlights caused by a five bladed aperture/shutter. 
The film was Agfa Portrait which was a lower saturation negative film.

From the Spanish Steps. Photographed with a Mamiya 6 camera and a 150mm lens.
Exposure info not recorded but the edge print of the film tells me that it was
captured on Tri-X film (TXP-6049). 


this was originally photographed on a rare film stock. It was Agfa Scala 200, a black and white positive transparency film. It was quite contrasty and sometime rendered reds too strongly. But it's a fun look and even more fun to scan. 

This image started life on Verichrome Pan film.
A nice and long toned black and white negative film; kind of an opposite of
the very contrasty Plus-X that was also popular at the time.
shot on a Hasselblad; I just check and found the little "Vs" in the film edge.

I'm breaking the scanning into projects. First up are my favorite old black and white negatives from multiple trips to Rome. Then I plan to dig in and scan tons of portraits --- family and friends; interesting other people. It's an interesting rabbit hole. Already having much more fun than I thought I would. 

Questions? Sure. 

For the aggressively pendantic. I'm currently calling the conversion of analog film to digital files "scanning." Call it whatever the heck you want. But it's not a straight copy shot anymore. That train has sailed....

This image was "copied" directly from four dimensional "real life" directly through the camera sensor and onto a solid state memory card. It required additional steps for me to be able to post it here. 

Give me a break.


Film scan from Agfapan 25 MF negative. ISO 25.



 

20 comments:

  1. I have know some friends of mine for many years and have been their unofficial family photographer as their children have been born and grown up. I have hundreds of photos of them and recently made a personal photobook for each of their three children. So this Christmas I have bought a number of USB memory sticks and will be cataloguing all those photos onto each drive so that they can each have a copy.

    A lot of the early photos are on film and those that I haven't scanned I am currenlty scanning on my Epson flatbed. I have looked at the whole camera scanning arena but I have decided that the flatbed is good enough for my needs. Another tool you might look at is the Cameradactyl Mongoose, which can do a roll of 35 mm in under 90 seconds. Not that you're the type of person to suffer from GAS ...

    Merry Christmas to you and yours, and thanks for keeping the blog going.

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  2. I never knew a thing about macro photography till I started "camera scanning" my old negs/slides, not that I really know much now. Canadian winters are a good time to do this kind of work. I shot some rolls of XP2 last winter and scanned those negatives just because. I use m4/3s gear so I've ended up with extension tubes on the front of the 60 mm macro to get the entire frame on the sensor. Luckily I don't have any medium format negatives or I'd have to buy some more stuff.

    But geez the dust.

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  3. I am in the middle of scanning slides as well. Slides from my father taken with a Leica R3 and mine taken with a R4 and R7 from the seventies, eighties and nineties. I am using a SL 601 and a Sigma 105mm Macro and a sturdy stand made by Rotscout in Germany. I use the Leica app for checking the colour and white balance adjustments. The scanning process is rather fast and straightforward, but still there is a lot of work removing dust particles and some small bugs visible on the slides.
    There is difference seen in the quality of the slide films: older Agfa slides are inferior in keeping colour and are rather noisy, newer Fuji Velvia slides are much better in these respects.
    Manual focussing is a must, autofocus is not good enough. I adjust focus on the grain of the film, easier than on the picture itself. It is a lot of work but rewarding for the family.

    I wish everyone a merry Christmas and a prosperous new year!

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  4. I have never done this, so I have some possibly stupid questions. How do you deal with the different aspect ratios between the object photo and the aspect ratio of the camera you're using. Are you cropping the negative in camera? Or are you shooting everything, then trimming in post? Is the difference between camera scanning and flatbed scanning dramatic?

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  5. John, shooting the full content of the original film and cropping in post. A good reason to use multi shot, high res feature. Flatbed scanning takes longer. A state of the art, full frame camera capable of 14 or 16 bit uncompressed raw files seems to have more dynamic range when scanning than most consumer flatbeds. My files from the camera scans seem much sharper and more detailed than scans I've made from the flatbed scanners I used in the past. If you use Photoshop you can go into the adjustments menu and invert the file from negative to positive with one click of a key. You most likely need to color correct and add mucho contrast. It's exciting to move those sliders around. Oh, and use that two second delay on the self timer. You want to have a completely still camera for this....

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  6. I have done similar scanning of 6x7 negatives (black and white only) using an old DeVere 504 glass negative holder (Durst holders are even better) and placed it on my old light board. Havent given it much thought but I guess the cold light lightsource for the DeVere could be used as well.
    For the m43 format the 45mm lens is great.
    I crop in photoshop.

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  7. Interesting that you use the camera to "scan" film but when using film you are copying or duplicating. We used Bellows and lens to copy and duplicate slides and prints/flat art. Now we are doing this with digital filess in camera while some still use dedicated scanners.
    Why has terminology changed with this?

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  8. turns out martin parr has 250k 20x30 prints of his work (along with a lot of other people's prints), he's hired an archivist to catalogue it all

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  9. I used a Minolta Dimage Scan Multi Pro for many years to scan 35mm and medium format film. I now use a Nikkor 50mm/f2.8 macro lens with extension tubes and an ES-2 on my Nikon Z 6ii. The only real difference from your setup is that I use my Nikon SB-500 flash to illuminate. That eliminates camera motion or shutter bounce, and the TTL provides accurate exposure.
    I can't tell the difference in the results with B&W film. With color slides, especially old moldy and dusty ones, the ICE feature with the scanner is helpful. The scanner is so slow and noisy it makes scanning a chore. The new set up is quick and easy.

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  10. Gorgeous pictures, sir.

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  11. I just gave in and bought a Negative Supply light source. I am using a Nikon bellows and 60 year old Micro-Nikkor 55 + flash but focusing was too tedious without a good constant light source. I should be able to try this out in the new year.

    I loved Agfa Scala, I was at Photo Expo and someone was demonstrating their software to emulate film stock for digital files. I asked if Scala was part of that and got lots of ooh's and ahh's from the crowd, I was not the only one who wanted that. Alas, they did not have that in their files. The original Scala slides were just wonderful.

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  12. Kirk

    I have come back to look at these images several times while you are on holiday and I think you have developed a secret sauce for scanning images. The first image of B has a tonal range that is worthy of the subject and a new print.

    I am looking forward to the scanned images you post in the future.

    PaulB

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  13. Ah, Verichrome Pan!!! Discovered it too late, not enough time to really experiment. Beautiful and easy.

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  14. Ah, Verichrome Pan!!! Discovered it too late, not enough time to really experiment. Beautiful and easy.

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  15. I know the English language is fluid, but why do you call this scanning?
    Clearly it's copying.
    Sorry to be a pedant...

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  16. No. clearly not copying. Instead using a camera sensor to capture analog images, convert them to digital data, compress them into specific bit depths for storage and use, converting from log curves to linear files, applying image profiles, and using the digital data to make photos composed of millions of data points instead of continuous tones. Interpolating the Bayer filter constructs and so much more. And, interestingly enough, sensors do read out in the form of consecutive lines of information (except for global shutters; which are few and far between in the consumer cam world).

    Leave the snarky pedantry on someone else's blog please.

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  17. Peter Krogh who literally wrote the book on digital asset management has been referring to them as "camera scans" since forever. And that is what I have come to know them as. Language. It's fluid and the only stones it's carved in are grave markers. Thanks for mentioning this company. Knew nothing about them.

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  18. "180mm CZ lens. The lens has the worst
    bokeh of any lens I have ever used "
    LOL. For a lens with such a bad bokeh the result you achieved is really ... very good ... and this is an understatement. But as I understand, you applied a bit of post processing.
    Anyway: Congratulations on the beautiful picture.

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  19. Thanks Mitch!

    Thanks Anton!

    Hope 2024 is fun for everyone.

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  20. I'm about to begin camera scans with a Negative Supply kit. I've had a suggestion to use the camera's remote app, viewing the proposed scan on my laptop screen. This app allows quick placement of the neg to be scanned and eliminates any camera shake. No need for a self timer. Thanks Kirk for posting your piece.

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