Bitchin Impala.
After a month of messing around with the GH2 I finally sat down and went through every word in the poorly written manual and mastered the settings on the GH2 that had confused me but which I really wanted to use for my photographs. I did a portrait assignment on location with the camera and its 14-140mm lens last week and, at ISO 160, the images were just right. (go figure).
But the big revelation to me was to set the preview to "constant" if I wanted to see real time changes in exposure, on the screen, when I changed camera parameters. I also found the "sledge hammer" settings in the film modes for sharpness, contrast and saturation. No fine tuning allowed. The jumps are big. But in Jpeg the one jump up to higher sharpness helped me zero in on what I wanted in my files. More apparent sharpness.
My lens test, on Saturday, showed me that all of these cameras and most of the lenses are pretty darn good. Even lenses from the 1960's and 1970's. You just have to eliminate operator error or operator laziness.
I ran into a large group of photographers who were doing the downtown "photo walk" thing and I was surprised to see that none of them had embraced the smaller, mirrorless cameras yet. Each participant was carrying a full sized DSLR. One person was walking around, shooting handheld with a Canon 24mm tilt/shift lens on a big Canon body. They all seemed to be having fun.
I was happy to be traveling light. Just the GH2 and the Olympus 60mm 1.5. Fast and easy.
There's a magic to that Impala shot that I find really attractive. It's the perfect combination of subject matter, composition, and light. Especially the light.
ReplyDeleteCould you possibly share your settings? :)
ReplyDeleteDarth, Daylight, Large Jpeg, film mode= Standard +1 sharpening. Judicious exposure comp.
ReplyDeleteHi Kirk, I seem to be preferring Aperature priority with old lenses. In this setting you get the constant preview results whether the setting is turned off or on. I guess that's because the "on" setting in the menu relates only to the Manual Mode. I guess some people prefer it off in manual mode... they must use the histogram instead I would think.
ReplyDeletePeter F.
Kirk... A follow up to my prior post. YOUR METHOD is better. I see now that in A-priority, the LCD will gain up/down when I shift the aperature ring because of course the camera is changing the aperature.
ReplyDeleteOn the other hand, one thing that attracts me to Aperature Priority is that I can use Auto ISO.
But Kirk you must know that REAL photographers only use BIG DSLRs.
ReplyDeleteFunny Clive. I thought real photographers only used medium format...
ReplyDeleteI've been really reticent to make the switch to smaller cameras and I don't know why exactly because there is no rational reason for me feeling this way. I just picked up the Nikon P7100 and I'm amazed at the picture quality, and just how free I feel with a camera I can carry in the palm of my hand or drop into a small bag. I've decided that in 2012 I will be buying into a small camera system...m4/3, V1 or NEX I haven't decided, so many nice cameras to choose from...at the moment I'm feeling the Panny GX1 with a nice EVF.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteFrom what I have heard, Panasonic has discontinued the GH2 and the G3. That said, Amazon is still listing it. No time to waste.
Chris
Or just wait and get a GH3 or G4-5...
ReplyDeleteI can never get used to the color of LCD on GH2, I know it's silly, but i just get discouraged every time i review the photo i just took
ReplyDeletech. I don't understand your comment. If the camera is set up right the LCD matches the scene in front of you. I don't see any color cast.
ReplyDelete