Many years ago I had an epiphany about auto exposure and the quality of the resulting images. I'd been using what were state of the art cameras at the time (film era) such as the Nikon F5 and the Nikon F100 and using them in my favorite auto mode: aperture priority. I knew enough to tweak the exposure compensation if the tones in the frame were really light or dark. But back then, as now, I find that cameras are easily fooled by things like deep shadow or bright light sources. One of my more experienced (and wise) friends suggested an exercise for me. He told me to use a fully manual camera and to follow the Kodak instructions for setting exposures on that camera which were printed either on an inserted instruction sheet in each film box or as printed on the interior of the film boxes themselves.
I found an old printed sheet for Kodachrome 64 (ISO 64) transparency film and I taped it with clear tape to the bottom plate of my old Leica M4. When I went out into bright sun the paper "meter" told me to always use 1/250th of a second f8.0 (or an exposure combination that equalled that EV). The idea being that if the light didn't change it wouldn't matter what tones were in the subject matter because the exposure was determined by the actual light falling on the subject. In bright sun it would always be that value!
There are always caveats. The exposures were most accurate, depending on the time of the year, from about two hours after sunrise to two hours before sunset. There were other settings recommended for cloudy days, heavily overcast days and also open shade. All of them delivered fairly accurate exposures but the one for bright, direct sun with hard shadows? Always....right....on... the money.
I worked this way on one trip I made by myself to shoot in Paris back in 1988. I used the Leica M4 and a 50mm Summicron. I did not bring a light meter, instead I used the Kodak method. In the evening, when I switched to Tri-X film I used the exposure suggestions I found in the Kodak Photo Data Guide (which I still have --- in case I need to calculate reciprocity failure of 4x5 sheet film with long bellows extensions) which informed me that a good base for ambient fluorescent light was 1/60th of a second, f4.0.
You realize of course that you can change the aperture and shutter speed to whatever settings you like as long as when combined they equal the same exposure value = EV. For example, if you'd rather shoot at 1/500th of a second you'd set your f-stop to 1/3rd stop less than f5.6. And Bob's your cousin. Or 1/1000th of a second with an f-stop of f3.5. Etc. etc.
When I realized that I didn't have to spend today waiting for the refrigerator repair person all day (that was yesterday) I happily went to swim practice and then, after a nice breakfast with B. I grabbed a camera that is fast becoming my favorite and headed downtown to burn off some of the stress of my ongoing "appliance trauma." Walking around with a nice camera and an empty mind was a good start toward calming me down and beginning the process of recovery from rampant customer (non) service abuse. Is the refrigerator finally repaired? Who knows? It's cooling now but will it maintain this level of performance after four or five days? History is bleak on this one...
But back to the photography. My biggest beef with modern cameras is their legacy of being confused by what I want exposed correctly. The cameras all want, in their own way, to analyze the scene through the lens, divide it into many squares, apply algorithms to the variance in the squares and then delivery a verdict. It can be a little off, a lot off or just wildly incorrect but it can be fixed by taking time to assess the image in review and then applying an informed amount of compensation, and then shooting again. That seems time consuming and burdensome to me when there are simpler and more elegant methods.
With the Leica Q2 in hand I hurried to my reserved parking space near downtown, parked and then took a moment to set up my camera in a very old school fashion. I guess I should call it the Kodak Paper Meter Method to give some credit to the (once) Giant Yellow Father. This entails doing something you can do with any camera; modern or ancient. As long as you can control the shutter speed and aperture settings separately and manually.
I set the ISO to the base of that camera. It's 50. It's not an interpolated 50 or a mythical 50. It's just 50 ISO. Same as on the Leica SL2. A third of a stop slower than the "real" ISO 64 found on the Nikon D850. The idea is to get the richest and most noise free file I can. Also to be able to use middle and wider apertures without having to resort to an electronic shutter.
I then set the WB to the "sun" symbol. Which, on most cameras, should give you a fixed color temperature of 5500 or 5400 Kelvin. According to all my tests and all my readings, as long as the sun is your primary source of direct light (not filtered through clouds) it will always be accurate. As in CRI 100. The sun is, after all, the gold standard.
Then I set the shutter speed to 1/250th of second and the aperture to f7.1. I would have set it to f8.0 if I had been shooting at ISO 64....
The final touch was to move the camera lens from AF to fully manual focusing. On the Q2 you get hard stops at both ends of the scale. You get a very, very nice distance scale and a depth of field scale on the lens as well. When you focus manually you can set the camera up so that a touch on the focusing ring magnifies the center image for super fine focusing and, if you want it, you can also add focus peaking indications to the magnified image. Voila. Now you have a fully manual camera in every respect.
If you are shooting with the f-stop just shy of f8.0 and you are using a 28mm lens on a full frame camera you have a fairly deep depth of field and most of the time you can just "guesstimate" the distance and set it on the lens's focusing ring (unless you are cursed with a fly-by-wire focusing lens....and no manual clutch). If you are diligent and you practice you can shoot with barely a thought lost to focusing. Or to spending the many hours of reading and trial and error you might have to spend to master some of the more "mystical" auto-focus modes in a modern "nanny" cam.
If you've set everything manually you can essentially just point and shoot and be almost entirely certain that the shot will be technically perfect. This method does nothing to ensure that you've pointed your camera in the right direction. If you want a photo of the Beatles you have to be sure and aim the camera at the Beatles!
But there needs be no other thought process to slow you down. It's relatively fool proof. Even an Austin photographer can be remarkably (technically) successful with this methodology. Trying this doesn't require much diligence.....as most of these "straight out of camera Jpegs" can attest. The only alteration is a reduction of size so that I'm not uploading 50 megapixels files to the web. But I find this method heads and shoulders above automation in any brand camera if it's consistency and accuracy of exposures that you really want. Oh, and turn off dynamic range expanding options. If you feel that you really need them it's better for you to just shoot the files in raw and do that sort of expansion in post. At least there you'll have some modicum of control over the results.
I walked. I photographed. I looked at distant objects. I cursed GE under my breath like a madman. And I tried to let the afternoon wash me clean like a fresh shower of sunshine and the detergent of a good walk.
I think that falls under: "mental health" initiative.
some captions below. where I thought they were useful.
Spring time clouds in Austin are puffy, detail filled and have depth. Lovely.
I have shot the alley mural at Esther's Follies many, many times but the
color out of the Q2 today was exemplary. This image is exactly as I saw the
color with my eyes.....after taking off my Polarized sunglasses...
Not a particularly good image but a chance to use the Kodak suggestion for open shade.
I love the sign to the left of the door that commands a strict dress code.
Especially in light of the place looking like a rat trap and also
having a big ad on the wall for cans of White Claw. Pure class.
the vertical sign used to be for a downtown department store called "Yarings."
the last downtown department store in Austin was "Scarborough's" but it
shut down many, many years ago. In the early 1980s.
I've been to Paris about a dozen different times, in all seasons, and I've
never seen Parisian Women wait in line for anything but the rides
at Euro-Disney.
A "Made in Germany" ping pong table. Serious gear for a serious game.
I wouldn't go bowling unless I could get a German bowling ball.
Precision engineering is important for games.
the pyramidal steps of the Federal Courthouse. Surrounded at the bottom
by tent camping homeless all the time but I get run off when I climb the steps and
try to photograph the building. Often by men with firearms, poor educations and bad manners.
If I set up a tent out front I believe I would be free to spend all the time I ever wanted to tunnel into the building. But why? And what Netflix show will use this as a plot line?
Russian agents or Republicans bent on disrupting justice by living as homeless people in tents,
spending night and day to tunnel inside. My bet is on the Russians as the republicans would most likely get lost or sidetracked by the soft drink and candy machines in the basement.
Not political just observed behavior reporting.
In my experience Austin is one of the few downtowns in which food can be delivered from multiple restaurants for in-office lunches and can be reliably left outside the front doors of a bank building awaiting each customer's pick up of same. Well, here and in Tokyo...
That's all I've got today. I'm setting up an SL2 and a 58mm f1.4 for evening photos.
Still using the Kodak Photo Data Guide for a starting point.