I started out photographing back in the mid-1970s and the combination of the times and my budget helped push me into beginning my tenure in photography shooting and printing with black and white film. It was actually about four years into my time experiencing photography as a hobby that I finally felt comfortable trying color film. Color film, for me, was tricky back in the late 1970s. The color negative stuff was dreck and getting a good color print from a lab back then was damn pricey. Exposure with slide film was tricky --- at best. And mixed lighting was... a problem.
I could make mistakes with black and white because I was buying Tri-X film in bulk and loading it into reusable film cartridges. My cost per roll was about fifty cents per. And my print cost was whatever the cost of a sheet of 8x10 inch paper was at the time. Keep in mind that this time period was before the Hunt Brothers tried to corner the market for silver. Once they did their market cornering stunt silver commodity prices soared by a factor of 5X. Kodak used the moment to increase the price of their printing paper and their film and, funny thing. even when silver came back down in price Kodak's retail prices never dropped. Again. Ever.
For the first ten years in which I worked commercially as a photographer I would shoot either black and white or color film at the direction of my clients. If they wanted color that was great. If they wanted black and white I had a darkroom and could do that as well. And happily. But all during those years (with a few exceptions for family vacations) if I was shooting personal work it was almost always with Tri-X. And from 1978 until 1996 if a client wanted black and white prints I did them myself, by hand, in my own darkroom. I never sent out B&W negatives to a printer. I'm certain that I put in more than those "ten thousand hours" that some people think lead to mastery of a process. I lived in the darkroom --- figuratively not actually.
But when I transitioned to digital imaging in 1998 my biggest single hurdle was getting black and white tones in printed output that were at all satisfactory. Nearly everything I tried had color casts, milky looking mid-tones, plastic-y flesh tones and blown highlights. Around 2010 I finally got my color to black and white digital conversions sorted out. If I was careful I could get close to the tonalities that would have been a piece of cake in a traditional darkroom. By 2015 I think I got the process well nailed down. But I'd been snake bit by the long and winding (and bumpy) road to get there. Gun shy? Not so confident? Pretty much.
Part of the issue is that none of the later black and white work was driven by clients and I stayed so busy right up until March of 2020. With less practice and less time in personal post production than when I was immersing myself into the process at the beginning of my career. I just didn't have the endless hours to commit to trial and error that didn't pay off for work.
So now that I've made a conscious decision to step back a little bit from the relentless hustle I'm more or less picking up where I left off so many years ago. Back to a passion; or at least a greater interest, in all things black and white. Or, as they say on the tonier blogs: Monochrome.
Since I started photographing with various Leica and Panasonic cameras, and since post processing software has improved so much, I've been mostly very pleased with my results from a routine of shooting images using a high contrast, in camera, profile and then tweaking Jpeg files in Lightroom or PhotoShop. But my early failures nearly twenty years ago haunt my subconscious which, lately, tells me that there must be a reason so many people sing the praises of fully monochrome cameras. And most of those cameras on the market consist of four Leica models. There is the Leica M which was based on the Leica M9 (color with CCD sensor) body, the Leica M246 which was based on the 24 megapixel, CMOS sensor Leica M240, The Leica M10 M based on..... and the monochrome version of the Leica Q2 (called, The Q2M). All of these cameras are set up with sensors that have had the Bayer filter arrays stripped away. They also have firmware that writes the files to the camera memory as .DNG files so no intermediary programs are needed to get the B&W files into my favorite Adobe processing apps. No conversions in third party software needed.
The marketing around all of these cameras points to a higher level of image quality in two major areas. First, since there is no Bayer pattern filter or interpolated color assignment scheme for the various pixels, the cameras are capable of higher sharpness. That's cool. I get that. And secondly, the cameras without filters in front of the sensors get more light to each pixel which yields a better performance at higher ISOs. Most of the monochrome cameras were on equal footing with their color counterparts at the usual, lower ISO settings but as the ISOs went up the spread in noise quality between the two increased as the ISO increased. A monochrome version might equal the look and overall noise of its cousins at settings up to 400 or 800 or even 1600 but a move to 3200 revealed the B&W camera to have a one stop noise advantage. But the clean performance is not linear. As the ISOs went up the spread between the color and B&W cameras increased by 1.5 than 2.0 stops and more.
So, the advantages are really threefold.
One advantage is enhanced sharpness. The second is the improvement in low light/high ISO use which works well in conjunction with modern post processing apps. One can shoot at lower levels (think half to one stop underexposed) and then use shadow recovery to bring back shadow detail with much less noise while preserving highlight integrity. Finally, one bypasses the need to shift hues in post production to get a "look" as the look is baked in at the time of shooting. One can add traditional color filters (green, yellow, red, orange, blue) to the taking lenses to shift color tonalities at the time of exposure. By not having to make post processing decisions about color conversions there is less that needs to be done to get the images to final fruition.
Some of my nagging doubts about using conventional color cameras and converting in post came from some less than excellent B&W files I kept getting when shooting with monochrome profiles in the stock Nikon, Canon and Sony cameras I tried. And that would go a ways to explaining my frustration and my resulting churn through camera systems in years past. Most of the systems were just fine in color but were never that convincing when shooting B&W files in camera; as Jpegs.
If I wanted something out of those systems that matched my needs for a final image in monochrome I had to shoot in color, in a raw file, and then spend a lot of time working with contrast curves and HSL menus to get exactly the kinds of tones I wanted. Not an optimal solution for someone who never wants to spend hours working on one image. Not by a long shot.
When I switched to Panasonic cameras I found a profile called L.Monochrome.D and it got me very close, right out of camera, to the kinds of tones I was looking for. I still had to add contrast to most of the images and still worked a lot to make that contrast fall in the mid-tones instead of globally through the frame. But when I switched to Leica cameras and started using their monochrome settings in the color cameras (with added contrast from a menu setting) I was mostly able to nail the tones I wanted.
Leica, it seems, has added appropriate mid-tone contrast much in the same way that a yellow or orange filter would back from the B&W film days. So, since late fall of 2020 I've been working in black and white by shooting Jpegs with the appropriate profile + contrast tweaks with Leica cameras and I've been satisfied. But for those on tighter budgets I will say that the Panasonic S system cameras are very close in quality and style.
One under-reported benefit of the Monochrome only Leicas is that they generate a .DNG file which can be pulled directly into PhotoShop via Adobe Raw and which gives one a huge range of tweak-ability in post.
But in the back of my mind I kept thinking that there must be some advantage to the dedicated black and white versions of the Leica cameras, The Monochroms, otherwise why would people shell out the extra cash to buy and use a much more limited and niche camera? Surely if I researched the subject and was as dedicated to black and white imaging as I thought I was I would be able to suss out enough advantages to justify adding an Monochrom M camera to my dangerously expanding Leica inventory.
To that end I picked up four different M mount lenses. I read up on as much as I could find and watched every influencer video about monochrome photography with monochrom cameras I could source. And that's when I started putting M-M cameras in my shopping carts...
But uncharacteristically I kept hesitating. I'd go back the next day and the prize would have been snatched from my cart by a quicker and more determined buyer. Because nothing is ever yours until you push the "buy" button.
Of the cameras out in the wild there are really only two that I'm interested in. One is the Leica Q2M but it's holding its pricing quite well. Still commanding over $6K for an excellent condition used one. Partly because the supply is so tight. If you want one you'll just have to pay for what's on offer... But also because Leica has been, until recently, the sole supplier of high quality B&W cameras. A limited supply for a market that seems to be growing by leaps and bounds. Driven also by a recent interest in black and white only photography by talented influencers like Alan Schaller.
The other one would be the Leica M246 which is a model that arrived in 2012, around the same time as the Leica SL mirrorless camera. Those seem more plentiful but the idea of spending $3500 to $4000 for a ten year old camera just didn't sit right. If I was going to commit then I might as well try one of the Leica M10 M rangefinder versions instead. Mostly available for around $6K and up.
I'm like that. Impressionable. Looking for technical solutions to what are, essentially, artistic problems.
But then I had one of those moments in which the universe steps in and gives you unexpected guidance. My wonderful and reliable computer started crashing its finder and then started crashing when using anything from Lightroom to Mail. A computer that has been flawless since late 2017.
I got on the phone with Apple Support and, after lots of diagnostics, figured out that I had an external disk that was dying and, since all the HDs are on a shared bus it was taking the system down with it. I pulled the disk, checked the file catalog and made sure that I had back-ups on other drives. I duplicated the disk again from a different HD onto a new drive. Plugged that new one into the system and breathed a sigh of relief. The old disk went into recycling.
But in the process I decided to clean up my internal 2TB SSD to make sure it has at least 50% free space on it. And in that process I came across tons of black and white images that I'd been taking. And more and more of them. And I liked all of them. Which is to say that I like the tonality, the contrast range, the preservation of highlights and the overall look of them. Not just a little bit but very much. And I started to calm down about the "urgency" of getting one of those fine Leica Monochrom cameras to play with.
I found several taken with a "lowly" Panasonic S5 (which apparently has the same sensor as the much more expensive Leica SL2-S) that were shot at 16,000 ISO and still looked just fine. I looked at images from a wide range of cameras. The Leica CL, the SL2, the SL and the Q2. All were slotted right into the range I think of as "optimal black and white."
I'm fortunate. I could afford getting a stand alone camera from Leica for monochrome shooting if I really wanted it. But would I actually use it enough to justify the expenditure? The scale in my brain, after being exposed again to my current black and white work, tipped over, resoundingly, into the "no" column. I know myself in some regards. I know that a new (to me) Mono camera would get a lot of attention in the short run. My poor readers would get blasted with a plethora of blog posts extolling the virtues of it. But in short order I would remember how much I like color as well and I'd start reaching over the Mono camera to grab a more "well rounded" color model and head out to shoot clouds and mannequins, and buildings at sunset, that are drenched in color. Understanding all the while that I now know how to make color files look great in "grayscale.".
I'd like to get an M Leica. But not a monochrome one. I'm interested in finding a really nice silver M240. For no other reason than to play around once again with a rangefinder camera that outputs at a high enough resolution to be usable for any type of project. But cheap enough to not worry about.
One benefit of the older M240 model is that the top and bottom plates are made of brass. Just like the first M camera I owned; an M3. A bit heavier, sure, but ...... "brassing." That's sublime.
Computer is back to normal. No funds have left the vast VSL H.Q. to fund a monochrome camera. No therapy required to be comfortable shooting B&W and at the same time knowing that the camera can also shoot color. Happy to have been through the process of wanting, researching and ultimately passing on yet another camera.
Waiting with much interest to hear JC's experience with the new Monochrome Pentax. Hope to hear about it soon!!!
You be you! 100% sure I'll like your photos mit und ohne Monochrom :-)
ReplyDeletesmart man!
ReplyDeleteBut if you remember, B&W seldom does it for me ... not since the great AA
How do you find the Sigma fp for black & white?
ReplyDeleteGood but not as easy to tweak as the L and P cameras.
ReplyDeleteI've owned the M9M, M246, and Q2M, each for about 6 months. The M9M was horribly slow and hard to shoot with (forgot how slow digital cameras used to be). The M246 was very fun to use, but everything had to be underexposed to have any hope of keeping the highlights in check.
ReplyDeleteThe Q2M was sublime, and the files a joy to edit. Because the 28mm lens is too wide for my style, I was cropping almost everything to the 35/40mm range (I shot with the 35mm frame lines). I decided I couldn't justify keeping that kind of money invested in a specialty camera, even though I technically can afford it. Too frugal. Luckily, all were bought used and sold with no more than a $200 loss. Still, if they ever put a 40mm lens on a Q2 style camera, I don't know if I will be able to keep from giving them my money.
A week ago, I got the bug to try B&W infrared photography. After a few days of tirelessly researching, I ordered a simple Fuji X-T30II modified for IR. It should arrive in about 3 weeks and was under $1,300... the kind of money I can experiment with and not feel too guilty about. Should be fun and scratch the itch until Pentax catches up with production on their monochrome.
The hunt is the best part!
ReplyDeleteEric
Thirty years ago, I went through a phase using Kodak HIE Infrared 35mm camera film. Living in the AZ desert I got some fantastic pictures taken at high noon. The strong black and white colors made for surreal pictures. There were challenges using the Kodak HIE Infrared film. The film could not be exposed to light, which made loading the camera in total darkness a real challenge. In taking pictures the viewfinder couldn’t be used because the film was so dark. I felt lucky if I got 5 good photos out of 36 exposures. Maybe these challenges and the great infrared pictures made for my attraction in using this film.
ReplyDeleteBob Autrey
I spent part of the afternoon shooting with the Pentax Monochrome and it's going to be a journey. I'm just not seeing contrast and shadows as well as I should. Mike Johnston claims that he didn't like carrying a color camera and then converting to B&W because he wanted to have his brain switched over to B&W, and not think, mmm, maybe this would better in color. I now have sort of the opposite problem. The Pentax is a DSLR and when using the viewfinder (which is great) I'm of course *seeing* in color and then the photo is B&W... and I have to do the conversion in my head to tones & contrasts and shadows. I'm not good at it yet. With my mirrorless cameras, I can switch over to monochrome and see in monochrome. (The Pentax has a fixed back view screen that does show a monochrome image, but I prefer the viewfinder.)
ReplyDeleteThe body is small but chunky, weather- sealed and has more buttons than Prince Harry's sport coat. Love my three limited lenses, but plan to start working with a zoom tomorrow. I'm sure I'm not as fussy as Kirk, but it seems very sharp to me. The autofocus seems sharp, but is a little noisy.
By the way, Kirk, Urth makes a converter from L mount to Pentax K. If you bought a Pentax Monochrome, you could get into ILC monochrome cheaply -- the Pentax costs a hair over two grand (if you can find one) and you'd have another use for those wonderful lenses...about 26 effective pixels. (Quick check: 25.73)
I recently got a Pentax K-3 III Monochrome directly from Ricoh. I did a series of test shots comparing the Monochrome with the slightly older but very good Pentax Kp, also a 24MP class camera. Same shots, same lenses, tripod mounted to facilitate switching between mono and color cameras quickly. The color images were converted in Lightroom and adjusted to taste.
ReplyDeleteShort take - the Monochrome camera does seem to do a bit better in terms of tonal gradation, edge acutance, and higher ISO performance. The monochrome Pentax produced images that were subtly but noticeably better than conversions from full RGB. Is it worth the cost of a new body? That's not a clear-cut decision.
I think even MJ would agree that using dedicated mono cameras is more about process than results so if you are happy with the results … .
ReplyDeletePeople have a tendency to overvalue complexity of effort in order to add some sort of perceived value to their pursuits regardless of outcome. It's a flaw mostly of linear thinkers and others tenaciously hanging on to legacy methods who allow historic processes to muddle their thinking about new technologies.
ReplyDeleteThe flawed idea that if something is harder to do the results have more value.
ReplyDeleteCoupled with the placebo effect.
ReplyDeleteKirk, there's an old saying that applies to photography and almost any art -- or anything else for that matter:
ReplyDelete"Nobody cares how hard you worked on it."
All anyone knows is whether they like the results or if the art/product works for them. I say if you are pleased with the final product, you're good. Besides, even if most if us love your work, anything you do that isn't bringing in money only has to please you.
Kirk, I think your last three comments are all true, but there's also something else going on here. Probably the most impressive photo book I've seen by a single photographer is James Nachtwey's "Inferno." And though he worked at a time when color was very available and effective, the photos are all B&W. It may just be a legacy way of thinking that harsh documentary photos should be in B&W (left over from the wars and social work of the 20th Century) but there does seem to be a directness to B&W that enhances some kinds of documentary photography. I'm an amateur painter and love color, but this B&W stuff has the kind of effectiveness that you get in plain-spoken investigative reporting, you know, writing without adornment. Of course, at this point, when I'm still trying to get my head back around how B&W works, and I'm taking pictures of tree trunks and dogs, that kind of effectiveness is not so apparent. Maybe it will be later when I take the camera out on the street.
ReplyDeleteI've always believed that black and white is its own art form. Different in many ways from color.
ReplyDeleteI agree with JC that being able to see the B&W image in the viewfinder makes all the difference as I haven't as yet been able to master color tone conversion to B&W. I prefer get things as close to perfect in camera and then do minimal post-process tweaking afterward.
ReplyDeleteAs a broad generalization, I think B&W will always trump color for portrait work. Even if it's a close up face shot, color has a tendency to distract (ex., is that the model's real hair color?).
I agree that color and B&W are different art forms. B&W works well for conveying impressions of structure, tragedy, trauma, war, portraits, and more. But turning those blue skies, wall art, etc., in your previous post to shades of gray just won't work well for me. I am not sure that the happy worker heading to his cooler would give me the same favorable impression in B&W. I think not.
ReplyDeleteKirk, I have owned two monochromatic bodies. First, an original ccd Leica Monochrom. And now, since recently, a mono converted Nikon Z7. The most salient thing I can tell you is: anyone who opines on this topic, either intellectually or from things read on the web, without having used one... does not know what they are talking about. You have to see the results to know. No, Silver Efx pro does not equal it. Nor does the "freedom" to manually control RGB levels in a monochrome conversion in LR/PS. The visual quality of a true monochrome raw file must be experienced. It is all about the tonality. Mono files have that endless, languid tonal scale (especially in the middle and lower registers) of large format b+w film. The tones are subtle, sumptuous, and once seen cannot be duplicated with a color sensor. When I had my MM, at the time I was using a Nikon D800E and Df. I found the 18mp images from the MM to equal the 36mp images from the D800E. In b+w images it was no contest. I thought at the time that the MM produced results similar to my Mamiya 7 and TMAX film. Prints. The real difference shows up in printed images. I found my MM images printed on F surface baryta paper to be the closest thing to medium format negs printed on Ilfobrome DW fiber paper. They sing, and I cannot take a couple of them off my walls at home. They just sing. I have not yet printed any images from the Z7M, but so far, the user experience and resulting files are knocking me over. Mirrorless and real time live view make this a whole difference experience than an M rangefinder. My advice: send one of your spare L mount bodies to Daniel at monochromeimaging.com, spend $1200 bucks, and see what the hoopla is about. It is far cheaper than buying any of the options you are looking at.
ReplyDeleteAbout Austin, TX:
ReplyDeleteKirk, this is fully off-topic, so if you don't allow it to get past the guard dogs, I can understand.
In the Feb 13/20 issue of the New Yorker, there's a long article titled "Greetings from Austin" &/or "Letter from Texas" &/or "NO CITY LIMITS," by Lawrence Wright. In it, he describes the changes he's seen in over 40 years of living in your city. He covers a lot of territory, and mentions a lot of names, both places and people, that/whom you might be familiar with.
Have you read it? If you haven't, I can cut the pages out and mail the article to you.
I usually shot Ektachrome, for B&W P3200 rated at 1000. A little curve tweaking was all the post it needed. I used a hand held incident light meter to get exposure info. Getting it right in camera makes post-processing easy 🙂
ReplyDeletec.d.embrey
fotochuck@gmail.com
There is a difference between lighting and illumination.
"Blackie" is an iOs app. No need to not have a B&W camera with you always. Less than five bucks at the app store. I used it on my iPhone XS Thanks for reminding me to download it for the new Pro Max.
ReplyDeletec.d.embrey
There is a difference between lighting and illustration.
I started photography shooting Tri-X. Worked for a daily newspaper for over 15 years...shooting Tri-X. Quit that, took on another career (thank God 'cause newspapers are dead today) and shot Tri-X along with HP5 until I stopped film and went to digital. I love B&W and, although I've toyed with color film and digital color, I never learned to love either one like I love B&W.
ReplyDeleteMy view, you don't need a monochrome camera. You do well with your conversions right now so unless you just want a mono camera for puttering 'round with, there's no need for it.
Right now, I shoot with old Nikon digital bodies and old Nikon manual focus lenses and use Lightroom and Silver Efex and get a reasonable facsimile of the Tri-X look I got with Rodinal and sulfite fifty years ago. It's not perfect but it looks good to me and I never have been chasing "perfect" anyway.
Stay cool. More hot weather is in store.
I agree 100% with what Kent says about cameras with a monochrome sensor, I have experienced the same from the monochrome sensors in my Huawei P20 & Pentax K3M. Over the years I have used LF cameras up to 17"x14" & MF cameras mainly with B/W film. which I have developed & printed in my darkroom. Honestly the jpegs from my phone equal MF film, there is amazing detail & a long scale, but then the phones cameras & lenses were designed by Leica. I see the Huawei P20 Pro as being a poor mans Leica Q2M. I have had my K3M for a few weeks now & I had been struggling with excessive contrast, & blown highlights, which you can't recover! After changing a couple of the cameras settings, & dialling in -0.70 ev compensation, I am now getting results which have tonality, similar to what I am getting from my phone. Like Kent I have still to make some prints from in my case the K3M, but I am confident that I will get prints which sing & glow.
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing your thought process; I find it interesting to compare and contrast the thought processes on digital monochrome cameras between MJ and yourself. I'm beginning to feel the need to own and live with a monochrome camera of some kind, so to experience it firsthand myself. Another cost consideration, lens filters for in-camera image tweaks not available post processing with a monochrome camera image.
ReplyDelete